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Ikat from Roti, Roti Group, Indonesia

141 Roti Group, Roti

Lafa (shawl)  magnifier

Origin: Roti Group, Roti
Locale: Nemberala
Period: 1930-1945
Yarn: Cotton, hand spun, fine
Technique: Warp ikat
Panels: 2
Size: 70 x 163 cm (27.5 x 64.1)
Weight: 305 g (10.8 oz), 267 g/m2 (0.87 oz/ft2)
Design: Lafa ketemak. Patola style with dula bana (flower) or dula ai (tree) motif in two broad bands, and tumpal borders. Executed in black, morinda red and yellow. The yellow has not been touched in, but has been properly ikated.
Comment: Excellent weaving of traditional pattern. The addition of yellow is a mark of nobility. Absence of lateral bleeding of the yellow dye shows that it was not added after the weaving - which is often done to enhance the visual appeal and status of the cloth - but actually ikated in. Fringes tightly twisted into thin cord. The cloth was made with very fine yarn which would make one suspect commercial yarn, yet under the magnifier shows irregularity of denier, so is most likely hand spun.
Background: For additional information see chapter on Roti Group and/or Roti.
Compare: 003 011 042 012 125
Literature: Khan Majlis, Indonesische Textilien, Wege zu Goettern und Ahnen, Fig. 446. Very similar to Boston Museum of Fine Arts, No. 27.468 and 27.469. See also James Fox's contribution in Mattiebelle Gittinger, ed., Indonesian Textiles, Fig. 6.
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